The Islands of Paris

We planned out our Paris trip so that each day would be dedicated to exploring a different neighborhood. Day two took us to the islands. Sitting in the middle of the Seine River, these two natural islands are not only the heart of the city center, but of the city’s history; some of Paris’ first settlements were established on the larger island, Île de la Cité.

Thanks to jet lag, Dave and I were wide-awake at 5am – giving us quite an early start to the day. We took the metro to the islands, and found a great breakfast spot nearby. We enjoyed a full Parisian spread of croissants, baguettes and apricot scones, followed by perfectly cooked scrambled eggs. It was so good we actually returned several times throughout our trip!






Notre Dame blew us away the second we saw it. We couldn’t believe we were standing in front of something we read about in school growing up. Inside, the architecture was just as impressive as its stately exterior. Chandeliers cast a warm glow on the symmetrical arches that lined the pews. The morning sun lit up the ornate stain-glass windows along the outer walls. And because it was still an active church, visitors were asked to observe in silence, which made the experience even more special.






We went from one renowned church to another. Sainte-Chapelle is a royal chapel that was built to hold personal holy relics of King Louis IX. The walls of the chapel were 15 floor-to-ceiling stain-glass windows standing over 50-feet tall. It was nothing short of breathtaking.






Just north of the chapel was the Conciergerie, a royal palace turned prison with its most notable inmate being Marie-Antoinette.






We broke away from the crowds to get a more authentic feel of the islands. We wandered through a small flower market, visited a WWII memorial, and had the best gelato we’ve ever had at Berthillon.






Just across the river was the Shakespeare & Company bookstore, where writers like Hemmingway and Fitzgerald were regulars. Books were stored anywhere they could fit – windowsills, staircases, door frames. There was also a maze of small reading rooms to relax with a good book and coffee from its café next door.






We took a taxi to the Left Bank, and spent the rest of the afternoon at Musée D’Orsay. The former railroad station is now a stunning art nouveau showpiece, displaying France’s most famous collection of impressionist art.






That evening we had dinner reservations at the Mini Palais. When Dave and I were researching restaurants, we were immediately drawn to its beautiful outdoor terrace. It felt like dining in a museum; the entire space was decorated with large carvings, Greek statues, and colorful murals. Massive pillars held up the incredibly high ceiling. And, because it was Paris, it was filled with classic bistro seating.






Our meal was very Parisian and very decadent. For starters, we had the lightest popover rolls, followed by ginger-lemon deviled eggs topped with crabmeat. For entrées, Dave had Scottish salmon with a pea purée, and I had chicken with morel sauce and white asparagus. For dessert, Dave had rhubarb shortcake with strawberry sorbet, and I had wild strawberries with farmer’s milk ice cream. The delicious food was not a secret, cute little birds hovered around the terrace ready to pounce on plates that were cleared away.  






We took an evening stroll to walk off our large meal. Even on a spontaneous walk, Paris continued to wow us at every turn. This type of architecture doesn’t exist in Colorado. The intricate Pont Alexandre III Bridge stretched over the river just across the street. Further east we got a sneak peak of the Tuileries Garden and Louvre, with a former palace surrounding the entire are. We sat by the octagonal fountain and watched the sunset over the gardens – a perfect end to our first full day in Paris.